How Detroit Chefs Are Feeding Those In Need

Mar 23, 2021
Originally published on March 24, 2021 3:58 am

It's been just over a year since Michigan's restaurants were forced to close indoor dining for the first time.

In that time many chefs pivoted from their restaurants to working with nonprofit groups on a new task: feeding their increasingly hungry communities.

The pandemic has exacerbated food insecurity across the country. In Detroit, it was already 39% before the pandemic.

"Once the pandemic hit, of course, that number heightened dramatically," chef Ederique Goudia tells All Things Considered. "Now we have our next door neighbors, our parents, our sisters, our friends who are now food insecure as well."

Goudia was just named one of Detroit's "food fighters" by the Detroit Free Press for making a positive impact on her community. In addition to being the co-owner of Gabriel Hall, an upcoming creole restaurant, bar and music venue, Goudia works with groups promoting food access.

During the holiday season, she started working as the lead chef with Make Food Not Waste. The Detroit-based group pushes cooks and consumers to prevent food from being wasted. Goudia and the team made and gave away meals for 5,000 people in Detroit on Thanksgiving, before doing it again for 6,000 people on Christmas.

Their work has continued, feeding 90 families a week with food that would otherwise end up in a landfill.

But they're not "scraps," she says. "These meals were something that people could be proud to put on their tables and share with their families. ... This really should be done with some dignity."

Goudia says food insecurity goes hand in hand with food deserts: areas without reliable access to fresh, healthy food.

But she thinks the phrasing is problematic.

"Deserts mean that nothing can grow, sustain life. Detroit has extremely fertile soil and, as a matter of fact, Detroit has over 1,800 farms and gardens all over the city. The proper term is food apartheid."

Calling attention to those local farms and gardens was part of the reason behind Goudia's most recent initiative, Taste the Diaspora.

From left, Raphael Wright, Ederique Goudia and Jermond Booze, pictured with shoebox lunches in February.
Ederique Goudia

Goudia partnered with entrepreneur Raphael Wright and chef Jermond Booze for the Black History Month project to celebrate the work of Black chefs. Each week in February, the group worked with local Black farmers and food makers to create dishes from different parts of the African diaspora. They created hundreds of "shoebox" lunches to sell in Detroit, and another 100 to give away to low-income families.

"We not only highlighted and celebrated the Black chefs and restaurants and put money in their hands, but we also wanted to make sure that we celebrate and highlight the ones that are growing the food and then making the food as well," Goudia says.

Black-owned businesses have been hit harder than white-owned businesses in the pandemic.

For Raphael Wright, in addition to Taste the Diaspora, he's working to bring a new neighborhood grocery store and market garden to the heavily Black Jefferson-Chalmers neighborhood on Detroit's east side — to alleviate what he calls the "food swamp."

"You have on every corner a convenience store, liquor store, gas station, fast food spot, a Coney Island," Wright says. "That's food, but could you live off of that every day?"

Wright says beyond the impoverished communities who are food insecure because of cost, many Detroiters are in a bind because they don't have the time in their day to go to a grocery store and prepare a meal.

But with more people cooking at home because of the pandemic, Wright says he's seeing "an opportunity for us, a unique one at that, to display what food is and how we need it in our communities to actually grow and be better people."

Goudia, meanwhile, says her work "is about making that impact and saying and showing people that look just like me that you can do it too."

Jason Fuller and Sarah Handel produced and edited the audio version of this story.

Copyright 2021 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.

ARI SHAPIRO, HOST:

For 21 years, the Detroit Free Press has named its restaurant of the year. But with so many restaurants permanently closing across the state, this year, the paper did something different. They're recognizing chefs and restaurant operators who give back. They call them food fighters.

EDERIQUE GOUDIA: Pre-pandemic, 39% of Detroiters were food insecure.

SHAPIRO: Chef Ederique Goudia is one of the Free Press' food fighters.

GOUDIA: So now we go, you know, once the pandemic hit, of course, that number heightened dramatically. And so that's really where our next-door neighbors, you know, our parents, our sisters, our friends are now food insecure as well.

AUDIE CORNISH, HOST:

Chef Goudia's work in the organization Make Food Not Waste helped feed 6,000 families last Christmas. Since this past Thanksgiving, they've fed almost 100 families per week. Chef Goudia says that work fed her.

GOUDIA: These meals were something that people could be proud to put on their tables and share with their families. This isn't some, you know, food, again, that is the scraps. This really should be done with some dignity.

CORNISH: Since then, Chef Goudia helped launch Taste the Diaspora, an effort to introduce Detroiters to traditional African diasporic cuisines and address food insecurity. She has a particular focus on the term food desert.

GOUDIA: Deserts means that nothing can grow, sustain life. Detroit has extremely fertile soil and as a matter of fact, Detroit has over 1,800 farms and gardens all over the city. The proper term is food apartheid.

SHAPIRO: Put another way...

RAPHAEL WRIGHT: We have a food swamp. You have on every corner a convenience store, liquor store, gas station, fast food spot. That's food, but could you live off of that every day?

SHAPIRO: Raphael Wright is another co-founder of Taste the Diaspora, and he's opening a new neighborhood grocery in the east side of Detroit. He says his motivation for both these projects is much bigger than the bottom line.

WRIGHT: I've been saying it since we started - you know, money is cool, but change is better.

CORNISH: In the meantime, Chef Goudia is also looking toward the future.

GOUDIA: This work is about making that impact and saying and showing people that look just like me that you can do it, too.

SHAPIRO: That's chef Ederique Goudia and Raphael Wright, co-owners of Taste the Diaspora in Detroit.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC) Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.